Looking for a fun free frog crochet pattern with plenty of personality? This adorable amigurumi frog features oversized sparkling eyes, a cheerful expression, flexible jointed legs, and a nearly no-sew construction.
Unlike traditional amigurumi designs that rely mostly on simple spheres and tubes, this crochet frog uses crocheted joints to create bendable limbs. This allows you to pose your finished frog in several different positions, from a classic sitting frog to a relaxed lotus pose or an upright seated position.
With its bright green body, contrasting cheeks, expressive eyes, and optional pink tongue, this amigurumi frog pattern makes a charming handmade gift or a fun addition to your crochet animal collection.
Fidget the Frog – Pattern Details
- Pattern type: Amigurumi frog
- Finished height: Approximately 17 inches (43 cm) standing
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Crochet terminology: US terms
- Construction: Mostly no-sew
- Main colors: Dark green and light green
- Accent color: Pink
- Hook size: 3.5 mm (E-4)
- Yarn weight: Worsted / Weight 4 acrylic
What Makes This Crochet Frog Special?
There are several details that make this frog crochet pattern different from a basic amigurumi project.
Large Sparkling Safety Eyes
The frog uses 25 mm safety eyes with an offset pupil design. Positioning the pupils slightly to one side gives the finished frog a playful, expressive appearance.
When installing safety eyes, make sure the washers are pressed firmly into place. They should fit securely against the inside of the crocheted fabric.
Flexible Crocheted Joints
The most distinctive feature of this frog is the jointed construction.
Crocheted joints are incorporated into the wrists and ankles, allowing the limbs to bend and move naturally. The legs also include a knee joint, giving you much more freedom when positioning your finished frog.
You can display the frog sitting, standing upright, or with its legs arranged in a playful pose.
Minimal Sewing
If you dislike sewing amigurumi pieces together, this pattern is a great option.
Most of the major components are attached while crocheting. The cheeks are the primary pieces that require sewing, and they can even be omitted if you prefer a simpler design.
Materials for the Crochet Frog
Before beginning, gather the following supplies.
Crochet Supplies
- 3.5 mm (E-4) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
- Yarn needle
- Fiberfill stuffing
- Two 25 mm safety eyes
- Straight pins
Yarn
You will need approximately 222 yards (203 meters) of worsted-weight acrylic yarn:
- Dark green: 189 yards (173 m)
- Light green: 28 yards (25 m)
- Pink: 5 yards (5 m)
You may substitute similar worsted-weight yarn, but using yarn of comparable thickness for all colors will help maintain consistent proportions.
Crochet Abbreviations
This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.
- BoR: Beginning of round
- EoR: End of round
- ch: Chain
- dec: Invisible decrease
- FLO: Front loop only
- hdc: Half double crochet
- inc: Increase
- sc: Single crochet
- st / sts: Stitch / stitches
Pattern Repetition
- *sc x* means repeat the instructions between the asterisks as indicated.
- Instructions inside ( ) indicate stitches worked while attaching a body part.
Important Pattern Notes
This amigurumi frog crochet pattern is worked in continuous rounds without joining.
Use a stitch marker to identify the end of each round and move it upward as you crochet.
Unless otherwise specified, work through both loops of each stitch.
The head and body are crocheted from the top down, while the arms, legs, cheeks, tongue, and eye bumps are made separately before being incorporated into the main piece.
When creating the crocheted joints, remember that the ch 1 at the beginning of a round does not count as a stitch.
For the best results, read through the complete pattern before starting.
Crochet Gauge
The recommended gauge is:
30 single crochet stitches × 5 rounds = 2 inches (5 cm).
To check your gauge, crochet rounds 1–5 of an eye bump. Press the piece flat against a solid surface and measure across its diameter.
The finished circle should measure approximately 2 inches (5 cm).
If your gauge is significantly different, adjust your hook size before beginning the complete project.
Recommended Construction Order
For an organized workflow, complete the pieces in this order:
- Crochet the tongue.
- Crochet the cheeks.
- Crochet the arms.
- Crochet the legs.
- Crochet the eye bumps.
- Crochet the head and body while attaching the individual pieces.
Free Frog Crochet Pattern
Tongue – Optional
Use pink yarn.
Rounds 1–10
Start 6 sc into a magic ring.
[6]
Continue with sc in each stitch around for rounds 2–10.
[6]
Fasten off, leaving approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of yarn.
Do not stuff the tongue.
Press the final round flat and close it with slip stitches. Hide the remaining yarn tail inside the piece.
The tongue will be attached later while crocheting the head and body.
Cheeks – Make 2
Use pink yarn.
Round 1
Start 6 sc into a magic ring.
[6]
Round 2
Increase in every stitch around.
[12]
Fasten off, leaving approximately 12 inches (30 cm) of yarn.
Create an invisible finish and secure the yarn on the back of the cheek.
Leave the long yarn tail available for sewing the cheek to the finished frog later.
Repeat for the second cheek.
Arms – Make 2
Use dark green yarn.
Each arm begins with three small fingers that are joined together before the arm is formed.
Fingers
Rounds 1–2
Start 6 sc into a magic ring.
[6]
Work sc around for round 2.
[6]
For fingers 1 and 2, fasten off and leave approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of yarn.
For finger 3, do not fasten off.
Join the Fingers
Round 3
Join the fingers as follows:
- Finger 1: sc through the first 3 stitches
- Finger 2: sc around
- Finger 1: sc through the remaining 3 stitches
- Finger 3: sc around
[18]
Round 4
sc around.
[18]
Use the yarn tails between the fingers to close any visible gaps. Secure and hide the yarn ends inside the work.
Round 5
sc 7, dec 2 times.
[16]
Round 6
sc 3, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 2, leaving the remaining stitch unworked.
[13 + 1]
Create the Wrist Joint
Press round 6 together to flatten the hand.
The final worked stitch should sit flush with the edge of the hand. If necessary, add or remove a stitch to achieve the correct alignment.
Move your end-of-round marker to the final worked stitch.
Round 7
Ch 1 and turn clockwise.
Press round 6 together and crochet through both layers across:
sc 7
[7]
Place the end-of-round marker into the front loop of the final single crochet.
Round 8
Ch 1 and turn clockwise.
Work:
- FLO: sc 7
- Remaining back loops on the opposite side: sc 7
Skip the beginning-of-round chain.
[14]
Rounds 9–13
sc around.
[14]
Round 14
sc 6, dec, sc 6.
[13]
Rounds 15–19
sc around.
[13]
Lightly stuff the arm.
Round 20
sc 11, dec.
[12]
Rounds 21–28
sc around.
[12]
Press round 28 together so the opening is flat and aligned.
Fasten off, leaving approximately 12 inches (30 cm) of yarn.
Finish stuffing lightly, close the final round with slip stitches, and hide the yarn tail inside the arm.
Repeat for the second arm.
Legs – Make 2
Use dark green yarn.
Each leg begins with three toes that are joined together.
Toes
Rounds 1–2
Start 6 sc into a magic ring.
[6]
Round 2:
sc 2, inc 2 times.
[8]
For toes 1 and 2, fasten off and leave approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of yarn.
Do not fasten off toe 3.
Join the Toes
Round 3
Join the toes as follows:
- Toe 1: sc through the first 4 stitches
- Toe 2: sc around
- Toe 1: sc through the remaining 4 stitches
- Toe 3: sc around
[24]
Round 4
sc around.
[24]
Use the yarn tails to close the gaps between the toes. Secure the knots and hide the ends inside the work.
Round 5
sc 5, dec, sc 10, dec, sc 5.
[22]
Round 6
sc 9, dec 2 times.
[20]
Round 7
sc 4, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 2, leaving the final 2 stitches unworked.
[16 + 2]
Press the foot flat and adjust the final stitch position if necessary so it sits flush with the edge.
Move the end-of-round marker to the final worked stitch.
Create the Ankle Joint
Do not stuff the foot before creating the joint.
Round 8
Ch 1 and turn clockwise.
Press round 7 together and sc through both layers across.
[9]
Place the end-of-round marker into the front loop of the final single crochet.
Round 9
Ch 1 and turn clockwise.
Work:
- FLO: sc 9
- Remaining back loops on the opposite side: sc 9
Skip the beginning-of-round chain.
[18]
Rounds 10–14
sc around.
[18]
Round 15
sc 8, dec, sc 8.
[17]
Rounds 16–20
sc around.
[17]
Round 21
sc 15, dec.
[16]
Round 22
sc around.
[16]
Round 23
sc 12, leaving the final 4 stitches unworked.
[12 + 4]
Press the leg flat and adjust the end-of-round position if necessary.
Lightly stuff the leg.
Create the Knee Joint
Round 24
Ch 1 and turn clockwise.
Press round 23 together and sc through both layers across.
[8]
Place the end-of-round marker into the front loop of the final single crochet.
Round 25
Ch 1 and turn clockwise.
Work:
- FLO: sc 8
- Remaining back loops on the opposite side: sc 8
Skip the beginning-of-round chain.
[16]
Rounds 26–27
sc around.
[16]
Round 28
sc 12, dec, sc 2.
[15]
Rounds 29–33
sc around.
[15]
Round 34
sc 6, dec, sc 7.
[14]
Rounds 35–39
sc around.
[14]
Round 40
sc 5, dec 2 times.
[12]
Round 41
sc 4, leaving the remaining 8 stitches unworked.
[4 + 8]
Press the final round flat.
Fasten off, leaving approximately 12 inches (30 cm) of yarn.
Lightly stuff the remaining portion of the leg.
Close the final round with slip stitches and hide the yarn tail inside.
Repeat the complete leg instructions for the second leg.
Eye Bumps – Make 2
Use dark green yarn.
Round 1
Start 6 sc into a magic ring.
[6]
Round 2
inc around.
[12]
Round 3
sc, inc 6 times.
[18]
Round 4
sc, inc, sc 2, inc 5 times, sc.
[24]
Rounds 5–6
sc around.
[24]
Fasten off, leaving approximately 9 inches (23 cm) of yarn.
Set the eye bumps aside until they are joined to the head.
Head and Body
Use dark green and light green yarn.
For clarity:
- DG = dark green
- LG = light green
The head and body are worked as one continuous piece from the top down.
Round 1
DG: Start 6 sc into a magic ring.
[6]
Round 2
inc around.
[12]
Join the Eye Bumps
Round 3
Join the first eye bump by working (sc 24).
Then sc 6 around the first half of the main circle.
Join the second eye bump with (sc 24).
Finish with sc 6 around the second half of the circle.
[60]
Round 4
sc around.
[60]
Use the yarn tails from the eye bumps to close any remaining gaps. Secure the ends on the wrong side and trim the excess.
Round 5
sc 7, dec, sc 2, dec 2 times, sc 20, dec, sc 2, dec 2 times, sc 13.
[54]
Round 6
sc 6, dec, sc 2, dec 2 times, sc 17, dec, sc 2, dec 2 times, sc 11.
[48]
Round 7
sc around.
[48]
Round 8
inc, sc 8, inc, sc 9, inc, sc 4 2 times.
[54]
Round 9
sc 8, inc, sc 2, inc 2 times, sc 20, inc, sc 2, inc 2 times, sc 12.
[60]
Rounds 10–12
sc around.
[60]
Round 13
sc 20, hdc 18, sc 22.
[60]
Create the Frog's Mouth
The mouth can be made with or without the optional tongue.
Version With Tongue
Round 14
sc 20.
Switch to light green and work through the third loop:
sc 10.
Attach the tongue by working (sc 3), then sc 5.
Switch back to dark green and work through the top two loops:
sc 22.
[60]
Version Without Tongue
If you prefer a simpler frog, omit the tongue.
Round 14
sc 20.
Switch to light green and work through the third loop:
sc 18.
Switch back to dark green and work through the top two loops:
sc 22.
[60]
Rounds 15–16
sc 20.
LG: sc 18.
DG: sc 22.
[60]
Rounds 17–18
sc 21.
LG: sc 18.
DG: sc 21.
[60]
Round 19
sc 4, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 5.
LG: sc 3, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 3.
DG: sc 5, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 4.
[54]
Round 20
sc 7, dec 2 times, sc 1.
LG: sc 6, dec, sc 8.
DG: sc 1, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 7, dec.
[48]
Round 21
sc 3, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 4.
LG: sc 2, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 3.
DG: sc 3, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 3.
[42]
Round 22
sc 5, dec 2 times, sc 2.
LG: sc 3, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 1.
DG: sc 4, dec, sc 5, dec.
[36]
Stuff the head to approximately three-quarters full.
Sew on the Cheeks
Sew one pink cheek to each corner of the mouth created around round 14.
Use small, neat stitches and try to position both cheeks symmetrically.
If you prefer a simpler appearance, the cheeks can be omitted.
Add the Safety Eyes
Use straight pins to mark the eye positions.
Place the eyes between rounds 7 and 8, counting from the top of each eye bump.
Position each eye approximately one stitch inward from the center of its eye bump.
Once you are satisfied with the placement, replace the pins with the 25 mm safety eyes.
Press the backings firmly into place and make sure they are securely attached.
Continue the Body
Round 23
sc 2, dec, sc 4 2 times.
LG: sc 1, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 3.
DG: sc 2, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 2.
[30]
Rounds 24–25
sc 12.
LG: sc 9.
DG: sc 9.
[30]
Attach the Arms
The arms are incorporated directly into the body.
Round 26
sc 6.
Attach the first arm with (sc 6).
LG: sc 9.
DG: attach the second arm with (sc 6).
sc 3.
[30]
Check that both arms are positioned evenly on either side of the body.
Round 27
sc 2, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 3.
LG: sc 1, inc, sc 4 2 times.
DG: inc, sc 4, inc, sc 2.
[36]
Round 28
sc 12.
LG: sc 15.
DG: sc 9.
[36]
Round 29
sc 5, inc 2 times.
LG: sc 5, inc 2 times, sc 4.
DG: sc 1, inc, sc 5, inc.
[42]
Round 30
sc 14.
LG: sc 19.
DG: sc 9.
[42]
Round 31
sc 3, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 3.
LG: sc 3, inc, sc 6, inc 2 times, sc.
DG: sc 5, inc, sc 3.
[48]
Round 32
sc 16.
LG: sc 22.
DG: sc 10.
[48]
Round 33
sc 7, inc 2 times.
LG: sc 7, inc 2 times, sc 6.
DG: sc 1, inc, sc 7, inc.
[54]
Round 34
sc 18.
LG: sc 25.
DG: sc 11.
[54]
Round 35
sc 4, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 4.
LG: sc 4, inc, sc 8, inc 2 times, sc 2.
DG: sc 6, inc, sc 4.
[60]
Rounds 36–37
sc 20.
LG: sc 28.
DG: sc 12.
[60]
Round 38
sc 21.
LG: sc 27.
DG: sc 12.
[60]
Rounds 39–40
sc 22.
LG: sc 26.
DG: sc 12.
[60]
Round 41
sc 23.
LG: sc 25.
DG: sc 12.
[60]
Round 42
sc 23.
LG: sc 24.
DG: sc 13.
[60]
Shape the Lower Body
Round 43
sc 4, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 7.
LG: sc 1, dec, sc 8, dec 2 times, sc 1.
DG: sc 7, dec, sc 4.
[54]
Round 44
sc 7, dec 2 times, sc 4.
LG: sc 3, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 5.
DG: sc 2, dec, sc 7, dec.
[48]
Round 45
sc 3, dec, sc 6, dec 2 times, sc 2.
LG: sc 4, dec, sc 5.
DG: sc 1, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 3.
[42]
Attach the Legs
Attach the legs directly while crocheting the next round.
Round 46
sc 15.
Attach the first leg with (sc 6).
sc 9.
Attach the second leg with (sc 6).
sc 6.
[42]
Check the positioning from the front before continuing. The legs should appear centered beneath the arms.
If necessary, carefully undo the round and adjust their placement.
Round 47
dec, sc 3, dec 8 times.
[33]
Finish stuffing the remaining head area, then continue stuffing the body.
Round 48
sc 2, sc, dec, sc 2, dec 4 times, dec, sc.
[24]
Round 49
sc, dec, sc 2, dec 5 times, sc.
[18]
Round 50
sc, dec 6 times.
[12]
Round 51
dec 6 times.
[6]
Finish the opening securely and hide the remaining yarn tail inside the body.
Finishing Your Crochet Frog
Your amigurumi frog should now be fully assembled.
Before displaying your finished project, check that:
- The safety eyes are firmly secured.
- The cheeks are positioned evenly.
- The tongue is centered, if used.
- The arms move naturally at the wrist joints.
- The legs bend correctly at the ankles and knees.
- The body is evenly stuffed.
- All loose yarn ends are securely hidden.
- The frog can be posed without putting excessive pressure on the crocheted joints.
The flexible construction makes this frog especially fun to photograph and display because you can create several different poses.
Tips for Making This Amigurumi Frog
Keep Your Stitches Tight
Amigurumi requires relatively firm tension so the stuffing does not show through the fabric. If your stitches are too loose, try using a smaller hook.
Pay Attention to Color Changes
The dark and light green sections of the body are intentionally positioned so that the color transition is less noticeable from the front.
When changing colors, complete the previous stitch until two loops remain on your hook. Use the new color to yarn over and pull through the remaining loops, then continue crocheting with the new color.
Take Care With the Joints
The crocheted joints are an important part of this design. Make sure the flattened sections are aligned correctly before continuing to the next round.
Stuff in Stages
Avoid waiting until the end to add stuffing. Gradually fill the head, arms, legs, and body as instructed so that each section maintains its intended shape.
Check Symmetry
When attaching the eyes, arms, and legs, check the frog from several angles. Small adjustments before completing the surrounding rounds can make a significant difference to the finished appearance.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is this frog crochet pattern beginner-friendly?
The pattern is rated intermediate. Basic amigurumi experience is helpful because the project includes color changes, joined pieces, safety-eye placement, and crocheted joints.
How big is the finished crochet frog?
The finished frog measures approximately 17 inches (43 cm) tall when standing.
Your final size may vary depending on yarn choice, hook size, crochet tension, and stuffing.
Can I make the frog without the tongue?
Yes. The tongue is optional. You can follow the alternative mouth instructions and continue without adding it.
Can I leave off the cheeks?
Yes. The cheeks are decorative and can be omitted if you prefer a simpler frog.
Why does this frog have movable legs?
The arms and legs use specially constructed crocheted joints. These joints create flexible sections that allow the limbs to bend and hold different poses.
What yarn should I use?
Worsted-weight acrylic yarn is recommended. You can substitute another yarn with similar thickness, but remember that changing yarn weight will affect the finished size.
Can I use smaller safety eyes?
You can experiment with different eye sizes, but changing the eye size will alter the proportions and expression of the frog. For the intended appearance, 25 mm safety eyes are recommended.
Final Thoughts
This free frog crochet pattern is a playful project for crocheters who want to try something beyond traditional round amigurumi shapes.
The combination of oversized eyes, a cheerful mouth, optional tongue, colorful body, and flexible crocheted joints gives the finished frog plenty of personality. Best of all, most of the construction is completed without extensive sewing.
Once your frog is finished, experiment with different poses and have fun creating your own little collection of handmade crochet animals.